Canterbury is one of those English cities where even just wandering the streets makes you feel happy. It has a relaxed atmosphere and, even when it is busy, it is a great place to spend a day. Despite being heavily bombed during the Second World War, it still oozes history. There are historic buildings at almost every turn and charming streets that make you feel like you have stepped back in time. In short, if you love history, then you will love Canterbury!
Where is Canterbury?
Canterbury is in the beautiful county of Kent, in the South-Eastern corner of England. It is close to London, so it has excellent transport links. Its closeness to the capital makes it a perfect city for a day trip if you visit London.
How to get to Canterbury?
Road: From the M25, both the M2 and M20 motorways will take you towards Canterbury. From the M2, you’ll need to continue your journey on the A2 into the city itself. From the M20, then you will need to take the A28. There are three Park and Ride car park’s available on the edge of the city. New Dover Road (at CT1 3EJ), Sturry Road (at CT1 1AD) and Wincheap (at CT1 3TQ). If you are driving in from London, then the car park at Wincheap is the most convenient.
Rail: Canterbury has two railways stations, Canterbury East and Canterbury West. What station to arrive at will depend on where you begin your journey. Both are a short walk into the city centre. From London, you can get a South Eastern Trains service from London Charing Cross, London Victoria and London Waterloo East. There is also a high-speed train from London St Pancras International. Although this will cost you slightly more, it will reduce your journey time significantly.
Coach: National Express run regular coach services to Canterbury from London Victoria Coach Station. You will need to take either the 007 to Dover or 022 to Ramsgate (both routes stop in Canterbury on their way). Coach tickets are generally a lot cheaper than their equivalent railway journeys. Assuming there is no traffic, the journey time is roughly the same as taking one of the non-high-speed railway services.
A Brief History of Canterbury
Settlements, both in and around Canterbury, have been found from the Iron Age and the area is known to have been occupied since prehistoric times. After they invaded Britain in 43AD, the Romans occupied the settlement and called it Durovernum Cantiacorum. Which means the ‘stronghold of the Cantiaci by the alder grove’. The Cantiaci were the British tribe that was living in Kent before the Roman invasion. After the Romans arrived, Canterbury quickly went from an agricultural settlement to a walled town. It eventually became a civitas in 80AD. The Roman’s rebuilt on a previously unimaginable scale and constructed a theatre, public baths, a forum, and a temple. The increasing possibility of barbarian attacks leads to the city’s walling towards the end of the 3rd Century.
During the early part of the 5th Century, Rome itself was under threat from marauding Germanic tribes. This eventually led to their abandonment of Britain in 410AD as the Romans pulled back their borders. Canterbury, along with many other Roman cities, was gradually abandoned and began to fall into disrepair.
Over the next century, the native Britons began to be displaced by settlers from Anglia, Saxony, and Jutland. Kent itself was mainly settled by Jutes. These settlers, who would become known as the Anglo-Saxons (the English), tended to live in more rural sites. Eventually, a small group of settlers began to live within the ruined walls of Canterbury. The settlement here became known as Cantwaraburh meaning ‘the stronghold of the people of Kent’.
Little else is known about the early history of Canterbury until the arrival of a Benedictine monk called Augustine in 597AD. Pope Gregory the Great sent him to convert the Anglo-Saxons from Paganism to Christianity. Kent, and Canterbury, in particular, was chosen as the starting off point for Augustine because Ethelbert ruled the Kingdom of Kent. Although he was a Pagan Anglo-Saxon, Ethelbert was married to a Christian princess called Bertha.
Ethelbert had allowed Bertha the freedom to practice her Christian faith and was believed to be a likely candidate for early conversion. The mission proved an instant success with the conversion of the King. The people of Kent began to convert in large numbers soon after.
Ethelbert granted land to Augustine on which he founded the monastery of St Peter and St Paul, later known as Augustine’s Abbey. Augustine also established his episcopal see in the city becoming the first Archbishop of Canterbury and leading to Canterbury Cathedral’s foundation. This led to the rapid improvement in both Canterbury’s fortunes and status. The city quickly became one of the most important trading centres in South East England.
Several centuries of peace followed until being shattered by a series of devastating Viking raids. These raids continued sporadically for the next two hundred years with several sites, including the cathedral, being ransacked. During one such attack in 1011, Archbishop Alphege (later St Alphege) was kidnapped and held for ransom. After refusing to allow a ransom to be paid to secure his release, his captors murdered him. He was supposedly by being pelted with cattle bone at Greenwich on 19 April 1012.
After the Norman conquest in 1066, Canterbury surrendered to William the Conqueror without putting up a fight. The strategic location of Canterbury and its closeness to the continent meant that the Normans immediately set about rebuilding and re-fortifying the city. The crumbling Roman walls and gates were strengthened. They also constructed a wooden motte and bailey castle (later replaced by a stone castle slightly further west).
Canterbury Cathedral had always meant that the city was one of medieval England’s most important Christian sites. The murder of Archbishop Thomas Beckett in 1170 put Canterbury firmly on the ecclesiastical map. This one event led to Canterbury becoming a place of religious pilgrimage for many centuries. Pilgrims began to flock from all over Christendom to come and pray at Beckett’s tomb. Canterbury’s position as a pilgrimage site gained further prominence with the publication of Geoffrey Chaucer’s masterpiece, The Canterbury Tales, in the 14th Century.
Canterbury continued as an important place of pilgrimage until Tudor times and the Dissolution of the Monasteries by Henry VIII. This national act of vandalism by Henry led to the closure and destruction of the abbey, the three friaries (the Black, Grey, and Whitefriars) and Beckett’s tomb. Canterbury then began a period of population decline and decreased importance (although it still retained its Archbishop).
The population decline was halted temporarily by the arrival of large numbers of Huguenot refugees. They came from what is now Belgium and Holland from 1567 onwards. These Protestant exiles worked mainly in the textile industry, and some of their ‘weavers houses’ still stand in the city.
For over one hundred years, the city led a relatively peaceful existence. There was only a brief interruption of this peace during the English Civil War. Riots broke out within the town in 1647 after the Puritans tried to ban church services on Christmas Day. This is often described as an attempt to ban Christmas!
Due to the city’s location midway between Dover and London, Canterbury underwent a revival with the introduction of stagecoaches. The city soon became an important stopping off point on journeys between the two. The city’s coaching inns once again made a brisk trade. In 1787, the city pulled down large portions of the wall and all city gates (apart from Westgate). The gates got removed because they made it difficult to enter the city by stagecoach.
In 1830 the Canterbury and Whitstable Railway began operating. The Crab and Winkle Line, as it was known, is widely considered to be the world’s first scheduled passenger service. It continued in various states of operation until finally closing in 1953.
Like a lot of cities, Canterbury was hit particularly hard during the Second World War. The infamous Baedeker raid on the Canterbury in 1942 led to the destruction of several large parts of the city and the loss of many irreplaceable historical buildings and treasures. It is sad to imagine what Canterbury would be like today if the bombs had not fallen on the city.
What are the best 12 things to see and do in Canterbury?
1. Canterbury’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites
The highlight of any visit has to be the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Canterbury Cathedral, St Augustine’s Abbey and St Martin’s Church. Canterbury Cathedral is the Mother Church of the Worldwide Anglican Communion and seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury. It is one of the oldest Christian sites in England and one of the world’s most famous churches. Its soaring structure breathtaking and taking a few hours to visit essential.
A short walk away is St Augustine’s Abbey and St Martin’s Church. The abbey was founded by Augustine of Canterbury soon after he had arrived in England in 597 CE. After the Romans had left in 410 CE, the newly arrived Anglo-Saxons had brought their pagan religion with them. Pope Gregory the Great sent Augustine to convert the Anglo-Saxons and bring Christianity back to these shores.
St Martin’s Church is even older. Parts of it are Roman and Anglo-Saxon although it has been altered over the centuries. It was once the private chapel of Queen Bertha, the wife of King Ethelbert of Kent. Its use as a Christian place of worship predates Augustine’s arrival, and it is the oldest church in continuous use in the English-speaking world.
2. Walk Canterbury’s Historic Streets
One of our favourite things about Canterbury is that wandering its ancient streets is an experience in itself. There are two areas that we recommend you explore. The area to the North East of the High Street that leads towards the cathedral. As you stroll down Butchery Lane and Mercy Lane will get a fantastic view of the cathedral looming above the buildings in front of you. These streets are small and bustling, and as you walk down them, you’ll feel as if you have been transported back to Medieval Canterbury.
Both streets lead you into the area known as Buttermarket and the imposing Christchurch Gate. This gate is the principal entrance into Canterbury Cathedral for tourists (the ticket office is also here). Built between 1504 and 1521, it is an impressive sight in a city full of historic buildings.
The second area we would recommend you explore is the streets to the South West of the High Street. Head down St Margaret’s Street, past the Three Tuns and continue along Castle Street as far as Canterbury Castle itself. You’ll find side roads aplenty to explore along your way. Although these streets are just as ancient as those closer to the cathedral, the buildings you’ll see here tend to be more modern (although still very old).
3. Canterbury Castle
The Normans built a motte and bailey castle in Canterbury soon after they had conquered England in 1066. The remains of this castle are still visible as a large mound in Dane John Gardens. The castle that stands today is on a different site slightly further to the West.
Constructed in stone began around 1086 and finished in 1120. Sadly, only the outer walls of the castle remain today. If you imagine a grand castle with turrets and a moat, then I’m afraid you’ll be sadly disappointed. Canterbury Castle consists of a single great stone keep with four strong walls. The upper sections of the castle were dismantled from 1770 onwards. This gives it the somewhat stunted appearance that it has today. The outer walls were initially around 24 metres high. It must have been an incredibly imposing and terrifying sight to the local peasants when they saw it.
4. Explore the City Walls
There have been walls surrounding Canterbury since the Roman’s built some in the late 3rd Century. Like most English walled cities, many Canterbury’s walls were gradually demolished over the last two thousand years. The sections that remain are some of the best-preserved city walls in England and are well worth visiting. The majority that survives was built in the 14th Century, although some Roman sections also remain. Overall, half of the original circuit and 17 of the 24 towers still stand today.
The best section of the wall to visit begins at the junction of St George’s Street and Upper Bridge Street. If you are looking on a map, the path on top of the wall is called St George’s Terrace and then becomes City Wall. If you initially head South West, the wall will eventually take you North to Canterbury Castle. You’ll also pass-through Dane John Gardens. The name comes from ‘Donjon’, a Norman word meaning fortified mound. This large mound is easily visible today. It was once the site of Canterbury’s first castle, a motte-and-bailey castle built by William the Conqueror in the 11th Century.
5. Greyfriars Chapel
Most visitors or locals have no idea that the fantastic Greyfriars Chapel exists for the simple reason that it is difficult to find. You’d struggle to come across it if you are just wandering the streets. It is a place you need to go looking for if you want to find it. If you would like to visit and recommend that you do, you can access it via Water Lane or by a gate that passes under 6 Stour Street.
What you’ll find is the Greyfriars Chapel which, although much altered, dates from around 1267. It is all that remains of the original monastery. Like many others, the site was gradually dismantled after the Dissolution of the Monasteries during the reign of Henry VIII. The building is not open to the public apart from a Eucharist service held at 12:30 every Wednesday. It is still a fascinating building to go and see, even if you only get to wander around its outside.
6. Canterbury Roman Museum
The Romans occupied Canterbury from around 70 to 410 CE. They called it Durovernum Cantiacorum which translates roughly as the ‘fort of the Cantiaci by the swamp’. The Cantiaci is the name of the Celtic tribe that occupied most of Kent before the Roman invasion.
While digging drainage ditches in 1868, a workman came across the remains of a Roman floor mosaic. Then, during the Second World War, extensive bombing in this area revealed a Roman townhouse’s remains. These remains were registered as Scheduled Ancient Monuments, and the Canterbury Roman Museum was built on top of the site. It houses a wide range of Roman and pre-Roman artefacts discovered in and around Canterbury. It is a little gem of a museum and a fascinating place for anyone interested in history.
7. Marlow Theatre
The Marlow Theatre is named after the poet and playwright Christopher Marlow, born in Canterbury and educated at the King’s School. A contemporary of Shakespeare, he was stabbed to death in a brawl at only twenty-nine. His work is still highly regarded. Some even say he could have challenged Shakespeare as England’s greatest playwright had he not died so young.
The Marlow Theatre underwent multi-million-pound redevelopment and reopened in 2011. The work brought the theatre into the modern age, and it is now considered one of the best regional theatres in the country. Its programme includes major West End shows, ballet, comedy, dance, opera, music performances and, of course, pantomime. There is also a café and restaurant known as The Green Room. Not only does it serve pre-performance meals, but it is also a great place to stop for a tea or coffee when you need a break from exploring!
8. Take a Tour on the Great Stour River
The Great Stour is a river that runs right through Canterbury. Despite its grand name, the river is relatively small at this point, and it flows sedately through the city. This makes it the perfect way to explore some of the lesser-seen parts of Canterbury. It is best to see Greyfriars Chapel’s, the Old Weaver’s House and the 50 Yard Tunnel from the water.
Several companies offer river tours. Canterbury River Tours usually sell tickets from The King’s Bridge, just opposite the Eastbridge Hospital of St Thomas the Martyr. They offer tours in a large rowing boat that holds up to twelve people. Westgate Punts operate out of Westgate Gardens. As the name suggests, they use punts that can hold up to six people. Canterbury Punting offers similar tours and is based in Water Lane, just off Stour Street.
9. Eastbridge Hospital of St Thomas the Martyr
Founded in 1176, the Hospital of St Thomas the Martyr upon Eastbridge used to provide hospitality to pilgrims attending the shrine of Thomas Beckett. It was not a hospital as we would understand it today. Instead, it was somewhere where people could receive bed and lodging. Today, it is home to several elderly residents.
As you go through the main door, you now have to step down into the building as the road outside has gradually risen over the last eight hundred years. It is a fascinating building to visit and, if you like medieval history, it is the perfect place to spend some time while in Canterbury.
10. Sir John Boys House
Located at 28 Palace street, this crooked building is named after Sir John Boys, a former Canterbury MP. Despite its severe lean, the building is safe as an internal steel frame now supports it. It was initially thought that Sir John built it but, as the building dates from 1617 and Sir John died in 1612, this is not the case. The horizontal windows at the top of the building suggest that it was once used by weavers who need good light to be able to work.
The building appears to lean so much because it became unstable after some repair work on its central chimney stack. These alterations were carried out over many years and led to the chimney’s complete collapse in 1988. Thankfully, Canterbury Council and Canterbury Archaeological Trust installed and internal steel frame and saved the building. The building currently houses a charming book shop and is the perfect place to take some photographs.
11. Westgate Tower and Westgate Gardens
The Westgate Tower is the last of the seven medieval gates that were once part of Canterbury’s city walls. Constructed from Kentish ragstone in 1379 it is now a scheduled monument and an icon of the city. It makes for an imposing entrance into the city when walking from Canterbury West railway station. The tower itself now houses a fascinating museum that will tell you all about its history. The broader tower complex has an impressive bar, cinema and restaurant, all of which come highly recommended.
Just over the road is the beautiful Westgate Gardens. With the colourful flower beds and the historic buildings of Westgate Grove visible on the other side of the River Stour, the gardens’ entrance is one of the most photographed views in Canterbury. It is one of many great places in Canterbury to take a stroll away from the bustle of the city. Whether you come for a rest or a picnic, we are confident you’ll be glad you came!
12. The King’s School
Founded by Augustin of Canterbury in 597 CE, the King’s School Canterbury is the oldest continuously operated school in the world. Until the 1530s the teaching would have been carried out by monks from the monastery associated with Canterbury Cathedral. The disbandment of virtually all the monastic orders in England during Dissolution of the Monasteries by Henry VIII led to the school’s re-founding by Royal Charter in 1541. This restructuring also resulted in the creation of fifty ‘King’s Scholars’ (in honour of Henry VIII) which eventually led to the school becoming known as the King’s School. Former pupils are known as O.K.S. (Old King’s Scholars).
Former pupils of the school include Michael Morpurgo (author of War Horse), NASA astronaut Michael Foale, the poet and playwright Christopher Marlowe, former England cricket captain David Gower, wine expert Oz Clarke, author and traveller Patrick Leigh Fermor, film director Michael Powell, celebrity chef Anthony Worrall Thompson and Hollywood actor Orlando Bloom.
As you would expect, the school is not open to the general public. If you want to visit, you can do so by booking through the King’s School website.
Where to stay in Canterbury?
The Falstaff
Located next to Canterbury’s Westgate, The Falstaff makes a great base to explore the city. It was probably originally built as an inn to provide accommodation for visiting pilgrims. Canterbury would have had a curfew where all the city gates were closed at a specific time. If visitors arrived after this time, they would not have been able to enter the city, and inns were built outside the gates to accommodate them.
Initially built in 1403, the building has been updated many times over the last six centuries. It is an ancient structure and is full of beamed ceilings and sloping floors. Previously known as the White Hart, it was renamed the Falstaff Inn in 1783. Despite the age of the building, it has everything you’d expect from a modern hotel. There is also a trendy cocktail bar and pizza restaurant onsite to ensure you remain fed and watered.
House of Agnes
Just across the road from The Falstaff is the House of Agnes. It bills itself as “not an ordinary Bed & Breakfast”, and we agree. It has an excellent reputation backed up by a perfect score of five out of five on Trip Advisor. Its rooms are all individually designed, and breakfast includes as standard.
The building is full of history, and you can feel this as you walk around it. There are beams and exposed brickwork all over the place. It is named after Agnes Wickfield who was a character in the Charles Dicken’s novel David Copperfield. She is said to have lived here with her father. The book described the house in great detail.
Canterbury Cathedral Lodge
If you are looking for a unique hotel for your visit to Canterbury, why not stay in one that overlooks Canterbury Cathedral? Canterbury Cathedral Lodge is located within the grounds of the cathedral itself. Although not all of their rooms have views of the cathedral, the majority of them do. Imagine waking up to a view of one of the most important Christian sites in the world!
Access to the hotel is via the medieval Christchurch Gate. This is the main entrance into the cathedral grounds, and at night you’ll need to ring a bell for the night porter to let you in. Once all the tourists have left for the day, you’ll be one of only a few people that still have access to the grounds. The clean rooms, impressive breakfast and attentive staff are reason enough to stay at this hotel. Being able to take a night-time stroll without the crowds make it a must.
Abode Canterbury
The Abode Canterbury is a luxury hotel located right in the heart of the city. You can step out of the hotel and straight on to the High Street. The rooms tend to be large and comfortable, and the service is said to be excellent. There is a fancy restaurant on site that serves breakfast and dinner, as well as afternoon tea. There is also a bar, called the Champagne Bar, that serves wine, cocktails and champagne.
Premier Inn Canterbury City Centre
If you are looking for somewhere more budget-friendly, then the Premier Inn Canterbury City Centre is a great choice. It is located just outside the city walls and is only a short walk to the main attractions of Canterbury.
Where to eat in Canterbury?
The Old Weaver’s House
Probably one of the most iconic of Canterbury’s buildings, it is undoubtedly one of the most photographed. The Old Weaver’s House gets its name from the Huguenot weavers who used to work in the building. On the riverside of the building is Canterbury ducking stool. It was used to temporarily submerge people under the water as a form of public humiliation. The victims were usually always women, and its use as a punishment included a range of petty offences.
Located in the part of the building closest to the river is The Old Weaver’s Restaurant. It specialises in simple yet classic British and European dishes. Although the food is excellent, it is the old-world charm of the building itself that we love. There are beams aplenty, and the walls are full of old prints, pictures and memorabilia.
The Goods Shed
The Goods Shed is a farmer’s market, food hall, and restaurant located in the same building. Located beside Canterbury West Station, it is housed in a beautiful old railway shed. With lots of exposed brickwork and expertly displayed artisan food, the building is as impressive as the delicious food. The restaurant uses quality ingredients to create a seasonal menu and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. There is also a café and delicatessen as well as a bakery in the food hall. These are both ideal if you want to stop for a coffee and a snack or to take something away.
Skinny Kitchen
The Skinny Kitchen is a café focused on healthy eating and located on Canterbury High Street. It serves nutritious breakfasts and light lunches as well as smoothies and juices. It has a good range of vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options and is a great place to stop for a recharge.
Kitch
Kitch is another great café located right on High Street. It is open for breakfast, brunch and lunch and everything they serve is homemade in their kitchens. They offer plenty of vegan, vegetarian, gluten and nut-free options.
The Refectory Kitchen
Having been open for almost 20 years, The Refectory Kitchen is a bit of a Canterbury institution. Located just outside the Westgate, it is open for breakfast, lunch and brunch, and serves mostly British cuisine. It has some great reviews on Trip Advisor and was even in The New York Times, The Telegraph and Lonely Planet.
Where to drink in Canterbury?
The Unicorn
The Unicorn is located a short walk from Canterbury’s Westgate, in a part of the city known as St Dunstan’s. The building dates from 1593 and has been a pub since 1664. It is comfortable, friendly and has a good selection of beer. The Unicorn is a no-nonsense pub and mostly full of locals. It is the perfect place to stop for a few pints before catching a train from Canterbury West railway station.
The Parrot
Only a short walk away from Canterbury city centre, the local area feels like a world away from the crowds on the High Street. The Parrot is one of the oldest buildings in Canterbury and was built in the 14th Century on Roman foundations. There are plenty of exposed beams, sloping floors and creaking doors. We love to come here during the winter and settle down next to one of the many open fires. What could be better than having a pint of beer in a medieval pub on a cold winters’ day?
The Foundry Brew Pub
The Foundry Brew Pub is a relatively new addition to the Canterbury drinking scene. It is a craft brewery, distillery, restaurant and bar all rolled into one. All of the ales, lagers, ciders on sale are made by the pub, and all of them taste amazing! This is not some dingy back street boozer with sticky carpets, yellow ceilings and only tasteless lagers on sale. It is a modern bar that has an excellent selection of quality drinks. Being housed in a historic building (yes, it was once a foundry) adds to its appeal.
The White Hart Inn
The White Hart Inn is another excellent pub located just a short walk away from the bustle of the main shopping streets. Being away from the main drag makes the White Hart Inn feel like being a locals pub. This gives it a relaxed atmosphere and means you are unlikely to find it full of stressed shoppers and bewildered tourists. The food on offer is simple and yet very tasty. The menu tends to be traditional pub grub rather than anything fancy and overpriced. We believe this pub is well worth the short walk to find it.
If you are looking for somewhere with cocktails, music and great food, then The Cuban Canterbury is a great place to drink, eat and dance the night away. Another bar that serves trendy cocktails is The Pound Bar & Kitchen right next to Westgate. If live music is your thing, then The Lady Luck is a popular place for local rock enthusiasts. Music comes from live bands in the evening and a very comprehensive jukebox during the day.